The arguments

What really happened at the first Terlingua cook-off in 1967?

Argument heat

On 21 October 1967 a Texan and a New Yorker cooked chili in a ghost town and nobody won. Everyone agrees on the draw. Almost everything else, from who organized it to how many people came to why the third judge stopped, depends on who is telling it.

The quarrel began in print. In August 1967 the humorist H. Allen Smith published a Holiday magazine piece claiming nobody knew more about chili than he did. Frank X. Tolbert, a Dallas Morning News columnist, answered with weekly attacks, and Austin newspaperman Wick Fowler became Texas's champion. The cook-off took place at Terlingua, a near-empty mining town in the Big Bend, at noon on 21 October.

The earliest full account is Gary Cartwright's, in Sports Illustrated that December. He describes about 500 people at the porch of the Terlingua Inn, three blindfolded judges, and a vote called aloud by the matchmaker, Tom Tierney. Hallie Stillwell, a local justice of the peace and Smith's pick, voted for Smith. Floyd Schneider, a San Antonio brewery executive and Fowler's pick, voted for Fowler. The tie-breaker, Dallas attorney David Witts, took one spoonful, spat it out and pronounced himself unable to continue. Cartwright quotes him: "I declare a one-year moratorium in the world championship chili con carne cook off."

Cartwright's headline called the event a fix, and his story explains why. He wrote that CASI had issued the challenge and picked the tie-breaker. Witts was a CASI insider and half owner, with Carroll Shelby, of the ranch around the ghost town. Cartwright added that CASI only later learned that Stillwell was Smith's cousin. He also reported that Fowler had been sick all night with a virus.

Later tellings change the details. The Big Bend Sentinel, writing in 2024, places the cook-off on the porch of the Starlight Theatre and gives attendance estimates from 250 to 3,000. The Handbook of Texas says 250 people came and that Smith's challenge was aimed at Tolbert. John Raven's history adds that the first choice of outsider was the Hollywood restaurateur David Chasen, who fell ill, and in a later installment says the third judge claimed he had been poisoned.

Why did Witts stop? Texans, Cartwright noted, assumed it was Smith's bean-laced batch. Smith blamed the Texan chili. The Sentinel's version has Witts saying his taste buds were burned off and that, in the confusion, he could not remember which chili was which. CASI's own history says simply that his taste buds were ruined.

Each of today's three championships tells the story as its own beginning. CASI calls itself the original host of the 1967 event. The Original Terlingua cook-off credits Tolbert and Wick Fowler as founders. The International Chili Society lists Shelby, Tierney, Smith, Fowler, Witts, Tolbert and others as the pioneers of the first World Championship Chili Cook-off. All three agree it was a draw.

A dense crowd in cowboy hats gathers in front of a long porch under a sign reading "Terlingua Ranch", with 1970s-era cars parked in the foreground.
Terlingua Chili Cook-off, Texas (undated; Texas State Archives). Texas State Archives, via Wikimedia Commons, No known copyright restrictions
A weathered two-story building with an arched lower porch stands above a dry-stacked stone wall under a blue desert sky.
Terlingua "Ghost Town," Texas (undated; Texas State Archives). Texas State Archives, via Wikimedia Commons, No known copyright restrictions

The accounts

  1. A

    Cartwright's ringside report

    A staged contest run by CASI to promote itself, with a tie-breaking judge from inside the society who spat out the chili and called a one-year moratorium. About 500 people watched at the Terlingua Inn.

    Gary Cartwright, Sports Illustrated, 11 December 1967, the account published closest to the day.

  2. B

    The burned taste buds

    Witts tasted, said his taste buds had been burned off, lost track of which chili was which, and could not vote. The crowd was somewhere between 250 and 3,000, at the Starlight Theatre porch.

    Big Bend Sentinel, 2024; CASI's history of chili says the final judge's taste buds were ruined.

  3. C

    The chili historian's version

    David Chasen was meant to be the outsider but fell ill, so Smith stepped in. Witts got sick and said his taste buds were permanently damaged, and referee Frank X. Tolbert declared a draw. A later chapter says the judge claimed poisoning.

    John Raven, The History of Chili Cook-Offs, Parts Two and Three, Texas Cooking.

  4. D

    The heirs' versions

    Each surviving championship names its own founders: CASI as original host, Tolbert and Fowler for the Original Terlingua event, and a long roster led by Shelby for the ICS. The Handbook of Texas adds that 250 attended and Smith had challenged Tolbert.

    CASI TICC page; Original Terlingua history page; ICS history page; Handbook of Texas entry on Wick Fowler.